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    This Long Beach ramen shop has a humble past — and a tasty present
    • February 18, 2026

    Ramen cafes have proliferated in recent years like mushrooms after a spring rain in a Kyoto wood. Though restaurants always have a backstory — none appear without roots — few tell that story with the pride of those behind Rakkan Ramen. The chain’s video is extensive, complete with a tour by CEO and founder Ryohei Ito, who tells us that Rakkan was born in 2011, as a diminutive four-seater in Tokyo.

    It’s built around dashi, the umami-heavy Japanese soup stock traditionally made of kombu (kelp) and katsuobushi (dried bonita flakes). But since the broth here is proudly proclaimed to be “100 percent plant-based,” rather than bonita flakers, shiitake mushrooms are substituted. Or as they like to put it, “Amp up the flavor with a dashi bomb … slowly simmered carefully chosen vegetables such as kombu … we don’t use meat nor seafood [to] get the rich, thick flavor in the soup…”

    Fifteen years later, Rakkan has branches in Japan and California — including such unexpected locations as Folsom and Truckee. It’s less surprising to find Rakkan in downtown LA, Redondo Beach, Anaheim … and right here in Long Beach, on 2nd Street in Belmont Shore, where locals crave the meatless broth, served in numerous incarnations with grilled pork or chicken. Both vegetarian and carnivorous at the same time. Call it flexitarian if you want.

    One of the reasons for the appeal of Rakkan (2.5 stars; 242 2nd St., Long Beach; 562-588-9318; www.rakkanramen.com) is that those not in the mood for ramen, rare as they may be, can create a perfectly satisfying meal out of the rest of the menu. Indeed, though ramen is Rakkan’s purpose, it takes up just one third of the menu.

    The first third is all small dishes; you could perceive Rakkan as an izakaya if you look at it sideways. You feel in need of greenery, consider the uniquely flavorful bean sprout salad, with pickled bean sprouts (and who even knew they could be pickled without falling to crumbs) tossed with cabbage, scallions, sesame seeds and the house-made spicy miso dressing — which is really the star of the salad.

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    There’s seaweed salad as well, because there always is. And a hot Brussels sprouts salad, in which the Brussels sprouts are deep-fried. I like Brussels sprouts, though I can’t remember ever seeing it before in a Japanese restaurant. And of course there’s salted edamame, which is as essential as bread and butter in an American diner. (Less essential is the calorie count listed for every dish. I do not go out to be haunted by my midriff.)

    If you’re further pursuing small dishes, there are four gyoza dumplings, two with meat, two meatless. Three buns, two with meat, one meatless. Two sushi “bites” (one with imitation crab, the other with real tuna), and two rolls (one with imitation crab, the other vegan). There’s shrimp shumai, octopus balls, deep-fried chicken karaage and shrimp tempura. But look around you — and it’s steam rising from bowls of ramen that perfume the air.

    There are 10 ramen all told, all named for various precious and semi-precious gemstones. Many come with grilled pork and a seasoned egg. Chicken karaage can replace the grilled pork. About half are specifically vegan.

    But in my experience, and this may seem a bit quirky, I find the additions less important than the Rakkan broth and noodles. Quite literally, once I’ve picked out the last shards and fragments of chicken, pork and egg, I view the broth and noodles as dessert. They’re rich and substantial and mad with flavor. They’re my reward for living a life filled with such easy-to-find and wholly available pleasures. Ramen is a gift. Rakkan ramen is a gift twice over.

    There is, of course, one more page of dishes — three noodles, four rice bowls. The spicy tuna bowl sounds worthwhile. The avocado tofu bowl seems healthy, but lacking in texture — no crunch there.

    For dessert, there’s matcha mochi ice cream. But then, the excellent Galata ice cream is just down the street. Dark chocolate beats matcha any day. Though there’s no umami in it. For that, it’s the broth that fills the bill.

    Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic. Email mreats@aol.com.

    Rakkan Ramen

    • Rating: 2.5 stars
    • Address: 242 2nd St., Long Beach (Belmont Shore)
    • Contact: 562-588-9318; www.rakkanramen.com
    • Cuisine: Local branch of a global ramen chain, with roots in Japan (of course), famous for its plant-based broth, with a menu that offers dumplings, buns and even a bit of sushi to have with your soup.
    • Hours: Lunch and dinner, every day
    • Details: Beer and sake; no reservations
    • Menu: 4 Salads & Greens ($4.50-$9.50), 4 Gyoza ($7-$9), 3 Buns ($5.50-$6), 4 Sushi Bites & Handrolls ($5-$13.50), 4 Rakkan Favorites ($8-$12), 10 Ramen ($15.50-$16.50), 4 Rice Bowls ($8-$9)
    • Credit cards: MC, V
    • What the stars mean: 4 (World class! Worth a trip from anywhere!), 3 (Most excellent, even exceptional. Worth a trip from anywhere in Southern California.), 2 (A good place to go for a meal. Worth a trip from anywhere in the neighborhood.) 1 (If you’re hungry, and it’s nearby, but don’t get stuck in traffic going.) 0 (Honestly, not worth writing about.)

     Orange County Register 

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