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Travel: Enjoy a music and food tour through the Mississippi Delta and southern Louisiana

February 19, 2025

It doesn’t get much better than listening to blues, Cajun and zydeco music while feasting on impeccably fresh seafood, an array of sausages and pulled-pork sprinkled with “bark” (the crisp pieces from the outside of the smoked pork butts), from the Mississippi Delta to the heart of Cajun country.

During a recent trip, we followed the Blues Highway (Route 61) from Clarksdale in the Mississippi Delta, then traveled deep into Cajun country where we made our base in Lafayette, Louisiana — one of the premier eating cities in the South, if not the entire country. Then we spent eight days that were chock-full of fabulous regional fare and music that will get even the most sedentary out on the dance floor.

Mississippi Delta

Clarksdale is ground zero, a town with numerous juke joints (blues music venues) where the Delta spawned such legends as John Lee Hooker, Muddy Waters, Ma Rainey, Howlin’ Wolf and B.B. King.

There’s even a memorial at the intersection of Highways 61 and 49, called The Crossroads, where Robert Johnson is said to have sold his soul to the devil in exchange for becoming the best blues guitarist of his generation. Right next door is Abe’s BBQ, where you can get your fill of pulled pork and other ’cue delights that are spicier than those found in Southern California.

We stayed at the Clark House Inn for three nights; it’s centrally located within walking distance of downtown Clarksdale. The antebellum mansion served breakfast daily.

Blues artists John Lee Hooker and Sam Cooke are depicted on a mural in downtown Clarksdale, Mississippi. (Photo by Dorene Cohen)

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Blues artists John Lee Hooker and Sam Cooke are depicted on a mural in downtown Clarksdale, Mississippi. (Photo by Dorene Cohen)

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Juke joints and blues clubs abound in Clarksdale — none more famous than the Ground Zero Blues Club, partly owned by actor Morgan Freeman. We caught an afternoon performance by LaLa Craig that was incredibly dynamic; it reminded me of a cross between Big Mama Thornton and Janis Joplin!

Sink your teeth into a fried green tomato, or pulled-pork sandwich or impeccably fresh deep-fried catfish at Ground Zero. Live music is performed Wednesday-Saturday evenings.

Other music venues worth checking out include The Bluesberry Cafe, where Guitar Frenchie holds sway; The Hambone Art & Music Gallery; and the Delta Blues Alley Cafe. Two restaurants stand out: Yazoo Pass offers such items as chicken and sausage gumbo, shrimp and grits and a pork rib-eye with horseradish cream; Lil Sistas offers brisket sandwiches, smoked turkey legs, collard greens, yams and a slab of ribs. Both are located downtown.

Next to Ground Zero is the Delta Blues Museum, which provides a comprehensive history of Blues music and the musicians who made it famous.

There are numerous day trips that you can take from Clarksdale. Highly recommended is the B.B. King Museum and Delta Interpretive Center in Indianola (bbkingmuseum.org), which offers a complete history with photos, film clips, artifacts and outfits worn by the legendary artist. His two-toned Rolls Royce also can be viewed here in this homage to one of the blues’ greatest impresarios. Expect a special celebration around the 100th anniversary of his birth, on Sept. 16.

After working up an appetite, head to Betty’s Place for an ethereally light fried catfish platter for lunch, or The Crown Restaurant for its legendary smoked catfish plate.

The Mississippi River winds its way past Natchez, Mississippi. (Photo by Dorene Cohen)

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The Mississippi River winds its way past Natchez, Mississippi. (Photo by Dorene Cohen)

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On your way to Louisiana, both Vicksburg and Natchez are worth visiting. Vicksburg’s National Military Park provides a self-guided driving tour of the place where one of the most consequential battles of the Civil War was fought. Don’t miss the reconstructed USS Cairo, an ironclad Union gunboat on display.

While in Natchez, enjoy views of the Mississippi River as you stroll around downtown and enjoy the antebellum mansions built along the river cliffs. Visit Magnolia Grill for shrimp and grits, or catfish, bass or walleye pike plucked from the Mississippi River.

2025 food/music events in Mississippi

Clarksdale Juke Joint Festival, April 10-13
Ground Zero Blues Club Anniversary, May 23-24
Clarksdale Birthplace of American Music Festival, June 12-15

T'Frere's House Bed & Breakfast is located in the center of Lafayette, Louisiana. (Photo by Dorene Cohen) — T’Frere’s House Bed & Breakfast is located in the center of Lafayette, Louisiana. (Photo by Dorene Cohen)

Southern Louisiana’s Cajun country

If anything exemplifies the French joie de vivre, it is southern Louisiana dancing to the sounds of Cajun and zydeco music; feasting on gumbo, jambalaya, crawfish étouffée and all things porcine, including cracklings and andouille sausage; and the world’s greatest bacchanal celebration: Mardi Gras.

Lafayette is the ideal home base for your trip, with its outstanding restaurants and music venues, allowing you to visit such legendary small towns as Breaux Bridge, Eunice, Mamoo, and New Iberia — each within about a 30-minute drive. Bayou Teche runs right through Breaux Bridge where you can take guided canoe rides, and the Atchafalaya Basin is less than an hour away.

Lafayette is the beating culinary heart of Cajun country. T’Frere’s House B&B (1905 Verot School Road, Lafayette; 337-984-9347) is an ideal place to stay during your visit.

On your first day in town, I’d highly recommend taking the Original Cajun Food Tour to get a true sense of Cajun cuisine. It makes five stops at local food places, and it’s easy to hop on and off the bus. Starting at $69 per person, it offers a taste of such local products as gumbo, étouffée and boudin sausage. Don’t miss it. (Reservations: 337-230-6169, www.cajunfoodtours.com)

There’s also an all-day Cajun experience that includes a guided tour of the historic Vermilionville Cajun Village, a swamp boat ride on beautiful Lake Martin or the Atchafalaya Basin, and a Cajun dance session at Gator Cove; you’ll also be fed like a local!

Recommended restaurants in Lafayette

Don’s Seafood: 4309 Johnston St.; 337-981-1141. Must-try dishes include lump crab cakes, fried oysters, turtle soup.

Prejean’s: 3480 NE Evangeline Thruway; 337-896-3247. Live music; order the blue crab and crawfish items, and scrumptious fried catfish.

Vestal: 555 Jefferson St.; 337-534-0682. The city’s best craft cocktails! Excellent steaks and seafood.

Whiskey & Vine: 507 W. Pinhook Road; 337-534-0662. Live blues and jazz music daily; bottomless brunch with unlimited mimosas, Bellinis or sangria. Recommended: turtle bolognese, grouper topped with lump crab meat, house-smoked duck, bananas Foster.

Geno Delafose & French Rockin’ Boogie play to a crowd at the Rock ’n’ Bowl bowling alley in Lafayette, Louisiana. (Photo by Dorene Cohen)

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Geno Delafose & French Rockin’ Boogie play to a crowd at the Rock ’n’ Bowl bowling alley in Lafayette, Louisiana. (Photo by Dorene Cohen)

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Live music in Lafayette

The Blue Moon Saloon: 215 E. Convent St.; 337-234-2422. Cajun jam every Wednesday; top-draw talent includes Steve Riley and the Mamou Playboys, and the Lost Bayou Ramblers.

Freetown Boom Boom Room: 300 McKinley St.; 337-806-9601. Open 6:30 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily except Sunday, which is from 6 p.m. to midnight. No reservations. Outside food allowed. Local, regional and national acts.

Rock ’n’ Bowl: 905 Jefferson St.; 337-534-8880. Not only can you bowl, but big-name Cajun and zydeco bands, including Geno Delafose & French Rockin’ Boogie, play regularly. Cajun dancing is encouraged. Bar food is available.

Side trips from Lafayette

Be sure to take a side trip to Breaux Bridge, the crawfish capital of the world, for the Sunday Zydeco breakfast at Buck & Johnny’s. There’s live Zydeco music and a dance floor that’s always crowded with locals.

Try to score a table upstairs, which gives you a panoramic view of the band and the dance floor. No cover, and there is also live music Thursday to Saturday at night. The brunch menu is an extra added attraction with such enticing items as Eggs Savoy (two eggs over biscuits topped with crab portobello brie) and “troubled water” (grits topped with crawfish étouffée).

The regular menu is a blend of Cajun and Italian with such items as their justly famous zydeco or seafood gumbo; seafood pasta with shrimp, crab and crawfish; and the Ragin’ Cajun pizza with shrimp, tasso, smoked chorizo with two sauces. Reservations are essential for the Zydeco brunch. Book well in advance. 100 Berard St., Breaux Bridge; 337-442-6630.

The Bayou Teche is just down the road on Bridge Street. Take a canoe or kayak ride to burn off some calories. Guided and self-guided tours are available for variable distances. Bayou Teche Experience, 317 E. Bridge St., Breaux Bridge; 337-366-0337.

Eunice is a small town nearby known for its blend of Cajun, Creole and cowboy influences and is often regarded as the Cajun capital of the world. Visit the Prairie Acadian Cultural Center and the Cajun Music Hall of Fame. Also, don’t miss the Saturday jam session from 9 a.m. to noon at the Savoy Music Center for a truly enjoyable slice of Cajun life. Every Saturday evening from 6-7:30 p.m., a live French radio and TV show, called “Rendezvous des Cajuns,” is broadcast from the Center for Louisiana and Folklore at 200 W. Park St.

Mamou is considered the Cajun Music Capital of the World. Don’t miss the Courir de Mardi Gras on the morning of Fat Tuesday. Participants on horseback ride from town to town begging for ingredients to cook up a big batch of communal gumbo in Mamou.

Fred’s Lounge hosts a two-hour Cajun music radio show starting at 9:15 a.m. every Saturday. It’s a tradition that began in the 1960s. The lounge serves alcohol as early as 8 a.m. and offers samples of boudin sausage from T’Boys. Fred’s is only open on Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. with live music from 9 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. It also hosts happy hour on weekdays from 4 to 8 p.m. 420 6th St.; 337-654-2026.

A crane shows itself during a tour of the Atchafalaya Basin, the largest wetland and swamp in the United States. It’s located in south central Louisiana. (Photo by Dorene Cohen)

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A crane shows itself during a tour of the Atchafalaya Basin, the largest wetland and swamp in the United States. It’s located in south central Louisiana. (Photo by Dorene Cohen)

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No trip to Southern Louisiana would be complete without a swamp tour, particularly in the Atchafalaya Basin, the biggest swamp in the United States. For my money, smaller boats with outboards and fewer people have it over the bigger and noisier airboats which scare wildlife and can’t navigate into smaller bayous, where you can get up close and personal with the fauna and flora and your chances of spotting gators and other wildlife greatly increases.

McGee Swamp Tours out of Henderson, not far from Breaux Bridge, navigates either the Atchafalaya Basin or Lake Martin. You’re virtually guaranteed to see gators, water fowl and birds of prey on your trip. Your captain will dangle chicken parts on a line over the water and a gator is likely to jump up out of the water and devour that piece of chicken! McGee’s Swamp and Airboat Tours, 1337 Henderson Levee Road, Henderson; 337-228-2384.

Finally, we visited Avery Island, home to the Tabasco factory. Tours take you through the process from fresh tabasco chilis growing on plants to the finished bottled products. At the back of the gift shop and available to taste is an extensive array of different flavors you won’t see in your local grocery store. Make sure you have some water at the ready! And bring some home to spice up your life.

There is a restaurant at the factory site if you get hungry. Also, there’s a very nice self-guided driving tour, and a walking trail is available allowing you to enjoy the large moss-laden trees, waterways, and hundreds of white cranes nesting in a rookery along the marshy shore.

2025 festivals in Southern Louisiana

Festival Internationale de Louisiana, Lafayette; April 23-27
Étouffée Festival, Arnaudville; April 25-27
Breaux Bridge Crawfish Festival, May 2-4
Festivals Acadien et Creoles, Lafayette; Oct. 10-12
World Championship Gumbo Cook-off, New Iberia; Oct. 11-12
South Louisiana Black Pot Festival & Cook-off in Vermilionville, located in Lafayette; Oct. 24-25

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Southern Louisiana’s Cajun country

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