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‘Try slow’ on the North Shore of Kauai, where regenerative tourism is the way
- March 24, 2023
I don’t want to be an invasive species.
I kept thinking this as I made my way up old stone steps into the lushness of Kauai’s Limahuli Garden and Preserve. Never have I experienced so many shades and forms of the color green, all in one place. This 1,000-acre valley teams with precious flora and fauna that include plants and birds on the verge of extinction – extinction largely caused by non-native species pushing aside what belonged here first.
It felt appropriate that my first day on Kauai, the “Garden Isle” of the Hawaiian archipelago, should be spent at Limahuli learning about ahupua’a, an indigenous resource management system used by native Hawaiians for hundreds of years. This was going to be a different kind of vacation.
I’ve visited Oahu many times over the years and love it, but that island experience has been molded around the tourism industry – Hawaiian culture packaged and made easily digestible. Here though, the rugged, largely rural landscape of Kauai’s North Shore – framed by serrated mountain ranges, a two-lane main road and sterling beaches – demands that you, visitor, take a step back and consider your place in the order of things. The question is, how can a vacationer enjoy the paradise that is Kauai while not draining all that makes it special in the first place?
Tread lightly.
At the northwestern tip of the island lies Hā’ena State National Park and Mount Makana, a legendary place for those who claim Hawaiian ancestry, where tradition tells of gods delivering the art of hula to mortals. (Of course Hollywood discovered the place and etched it into popular memory as “Bali Hai” in the 1958 movie spinoff of the musical “South Pacific.”) It’s the gateway to the pristine, protected Nā Pali coast.
Evidently, travelers used to be able to drive all the way up to the beach there, but in the aftermath of massive landslides and flooding that devastated the area in 2018, access has been drastically limited. Now a shuttle service takes you to the park entrance, a place where the intrepid can brave the strenuous, two-hour hike to Hahakapi’ai Falls. My companions said it was spectacular, but I’ll take their word for it. I decided to commune with nature on the white sand of Ke’e Beach … looking not unlike the lone monk sea who sunned himself not 15 yards from me….
Along Kuhio Highway – the island’s main access route, a two-lane road, where there’s a one-lane access at the bridge over Hanalei River – going to and from Ha’ena State National Park you see hand-painted signs that say “Try Slow,” which feel like an invitation not only to mind the speed you’re traveling but to consider an entirely different way to be in the world.
Slow is also the pace at the innovative campus of Common Ground, a former sugar plantation-turned-regenerative farm that sees its future as a place where people can gather to connect around food events, art and education, and support local businesses.
Do what I did and spend an afternoon on the farm tour led by John Parziale, Common Ground’s director of agroecology, to experience what are not only sustainable ways for man and beast to eat from the land, but practices that might, ultimately, restore the land. You just might come away feeling hopeful about the future.
My companions and I were staying at the Cliffs at Princeville, a comfortable and inviting timeshare/hotel perched, as the name suggests, right on cliffs overlooking the Pacific. Awarded numerous “eco-friendly” and “sustainable” laurels by the hospitality industry, the Cliffs supports the state-wide Mālama Hawai’i initiative, which helps tourists participate in hands-on, educational experiences that help the communities they visit, from beach cleanup to tree-planting to historic preservation and more.
The entire Princeville resort development on Kauai is vast, containing many properties – including the seemingly requisite golf course – but the Cliffs have a particularly gentle, laid-back vibe where it’s enough just to gather at sunset to enjoy each other’s company as you watch the sun sink below the horizon.
Because I’m a horse owner and lifelong equestrian, I always feel I know a landscape best when I have ridden across it. Lucky for me, just minutes from the Cliffs is one of the state’s oldest ranches, Princeville Ranch.
Rides there aren’t your usual tourist affair, where horses are lined up like mechanical, interchangeable vehicles plodding forward. For wrangler Lucie Olivova, it’s a mindful affair; she takes time to introduce you to your mount by name, explaining the horse’s personality and preferences. Before heading out into the verdant expanse of the ranch, she takes time to review riding basics, and asks that you open your heart to the experience of being one with the creatures and the land. All of it makes for a beautiful, fulfilling two-hour experience.
Heading back to the Cliffs, I needed to stop and get a few refreshments at the Foodland grocery store next to the resort. When I got to the checkout, the clerk asked if I had a customer rewards number, as if I were a local shopper.
“No,” I said, “just visiting.”
She smiled. “Oh you’ll be back. Let’s get you set up with one.”
I knew then she was right. Kauai had shown me the way to visit without invading.
Sidebar: Take ‘Island Wisdom’ along
A must-read for travelers to Hawaii is “Island Wisdom” by Hawaiian and state tourism executive Kainoa Daines and travel writer Annie Daly. (Courtesy Chronicle Books)
For the traveler who wants to really get inside not only the beauty of Hawaii but the mindset and cultural philosophy of its people, “Island Wisdom: Hawaiian Traditions and Practices for a Meaningful Life” by By Kainoa Daines and Annie Daly is a must-read.
Daines, a Native Hawaiian and Hawaii’s tourism industry executive, teams up with Daly, a travel journalist, to lead an inspirational journey through Hawaiian teachings. They guide readers through four key themes – aloha (love), ʻāina (land), mo‘olelo (stories) and ‘ohana (family) – in the hope that we will come away with the tools needed to weave Indigenous Hawaiian culture, language and values into our own lives.
The writers island-hopped to interview Hawaiian community leaders, activists, teachers, farmers, storytellers, elders and more, who shared their wisdom on the essence of Hawaiian living. Readers come away understanding that Hawaii is much more than a vacation spot or a backdrop for a Hollywood drama – it can be a beautiful example of how to lead a more meaningful life, no matter where you are.
More ‘Go+Eat+Adventure’
This story is part of a collection of stories printed Sunday, March 26, 2023.
Meet the entrepreneur who kicked off the craft beer craze in Old Towne Orange
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How to run away to the calming beauty of Maui for rest and relaxation
- March 24, 2023
After the last year, I needed a break. With only a few days to myself, where could I go to unwind and connect to nature? I started exploring options for a quick getaway; Maui, with its calm energy and fewer tourists than some of the other islands, seemed exactly my speed.
Kā’anapali Beach, which means “rolling cliffs,” is three miles of stunning Hawaiian coastline located on the west side of the island. Nestled in the center was the Kā’anapali Beach Hotel, flanked by towering palm trees, with windows facing the translucent sea. Opening its doors in 1964, the property and the staff are rooted in traditional Hawaiian culture and customs, eager to share their history and the connection to the islands. I knew I was in the right place.
Entering the lobby, you can smell the humidity. If I squinted, I could get on board with the kitsch of it all – the original ’60s decor seemingly still intact. More than half the hotel recently underwent a complete renovation, with the rest of the hotel (lobby included) set to be remodeled in the near future.
Two of the four themed guest buildings boast new, “premium” rooms that have been remodeled and modernized with environmentally friendly upgrades. One enhancement: an electrical wall panel by the door requires your room key to be inserted for the lights and electricity to work, so when you’re out of the room nothing stays on unnecessarily (also a convenient place to keep your key).
Every room offers gorgeous views, and some are simply breathtaking. Beachgoers took turns jumping off the volcanic ocean cliff called Black Rock, and whales breached the water – showing off with massive splashes to applause from the beach.
(Oddly, the rooms don’t offer robes or room service, which for a hotel of this caliber and price point, surprised me. However, the restaurant and café offer pick-up orders, so there are options for in-room dining. And I think I made a good case with the manager for robes in the rooms. Fingers crossed!)
At Moanaku’inamoku, the ocean activities hut, you can grab towels for the pool or beach and rent all manner of water activity equipment. Do yourself a favor and take the Kilo Moana class, where a knowledgeable staff member details the rich history of Kā’anapali Beach and the neighboring islands, as well as the current dangers and ways to safely enjoy the beach, snorkeling and paddleboarding.
The grounds are luxurious but maintain an intimate quality. And, as a woman traveling alone, I felt completely safe wherever I went. When I ran into any staff member, they were always warm, friendly and seemed eager to help with any request – ending all conversations with a sing-song “Mahalo.”
The crown jewel of the hotel is its restaurant, Huihui. The restaurant is the only one on the beach where every seat in the house has an ocean view. I chatted with folks at the bar between bites of salt & pepper wings and realized that many of them were guests at neighboring hotels, making the trip to Huihui for a meal. A few feet from crashing waves, the wide-open design and tiki hut roof embody indoor-outdoor living.
Tom Muromoto, the executive chef and Food and Beverage director who has worked for the hotel for 23 years, oversees all the food at the resort. As we discussed his favorite dishes and his love of fusion cooking, his face exuded a mixture of pride and contentment.
“My dad was a fabulous cook, and my influence really came from my upbringing and how Hawaii is so influenced by so many flavors of food,” he says. “The last half of my career was mostly traveling, trying to get to other countries to learn different foods – from Vietnam to Japan to Hong Kong.”
Chef Muromoto’s globetrotting is evident in every bite. The menu is eclectic and worldly, but each item has an element that keeps it rooted in Hawaii.
The goodbye lei ceremony is offered a few times a day for departing guests. Beautiful words are spoken, a sweet song is sung, and each guest is given a lei made of the kukui nut – a nut used to bring “light” to the people.
Before I headed back to the bustle of the mainland, I relaxed in one of the hotel’s other open-air restaurants with unobstructed views of the sea, sipping a blended Goodie Guri, while warm ocean breezes blew against my skin. I was wearing linen in February, watching whales jump out of the ocean and dolphins swim by and thought, you don’t get closer to tropical paradise than this.
More ‘Go+Eat+Adventure’
This story is part of a collection of stories printed Sunday, March 26, 2023.
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Why sharing home-cooked meals is a way of building family for one South Asian writer
Like Vietnamese food? Here are 5 delicious spots in OC’s Little Saigon to try
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Read more ‘Go+Eat+Adventure’
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Senate Bill 44 by Sen. Tom Umberg will put more people at risk of overdosing from fentanyl
- March 23, 2023
My son Ben was 20 years old and studying film when he died of a preventable drug overdose. Ben, who was first exposed to opioids through prescription pain pills following a skateboarding accident when he was a teenager, had struggled with an opioid use disorder for two years and had spent less than two months at an in-patient treatment facility when he walked out of the facility against clinical advice. The next day, he overdosed and was put on life support before dying a week later.
At first, I was filled with anger over Ben’s death. He was with three friends when he overdosed, and none of them called for help. Ben didn’t have to die.
Today, I still believe that Ben didn’t have to die, but I also recognize that it wasn’t heroin that ultimately caused my son’s death, it was fear of incarceration — the very threat that a new bill by Orange County state Sen. Tom Umberg promises to levy against more people.
Initially, our son’s death was investigated as a homicide, due to the circumstances surrounding his overdose. However, on completion of the post-mortem, I was informed by law enforcement that Ben’s death was an accident. I was told that my son had made a choice that night; he was not forced to take heroin against his will. Ben purchased an illicit substance, allowed a third party to inject him with it, and consequently suffered a fatal overdose. It was a tragic accident, but it was not murder.
Related: Harsher penalties for fentanyl won’t save lives
It is true that his friends made a series of poor choices that night, but it was never their intent to kill our son. When he overdosed, Ben was three minutes from a fire station and just a mile from our home in Rancho Santa Margarita. Instead of calling 911, his friends removed our son’s body from the car along with any evidence that could place Ben there.
“How could they do this,” I asked? Now I know that they did it out of fear.
One of the people Ben was with was in a drug diversion program and was afraid of calling 911 and being sent back to jail. If it is passed, Sen. Umberg’s Senate Bill 44 would undoubtedly put more people in this situation and lead to more unnecessary overdose deaths.
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According to Sen. Umberg’s office, SB 44 offers an approach “that first warns and then punishes” people for murder who sell fentanyl if it results in someone’s death. But the bill ignores all the science related to substance use. People who are suffering from substance use disorders buy drugs together, sell to one another, and if someone dies, it is not intentional. It is not murder.
To threaten more people with murder convictions will convince people who use drugs and who witness an overdose that they are not safe to call 911, just as happened with my son.
I urge California lawmakers to reject this proposal.
Increasing access to the opioid antidote naloxone is the most practical and proven solution to reduce opioid-related deaths. Doing so will ensure that we can keep people alive until they’re ready to get help and get well.
Had the three people who were with Ben at the time of his overdose not been afraid of calling 911 or had they carried naloxone, Ben might still be here today.
Aimee Dunkle is the executive director of the Solace Foundation of Orange County, a nonprofit that has distributed 46,000 doses of naloxone and recorded over 2,500 overdose reversals in Orange County. Aimee also serves on the board of Broken No More, an organization formed by families and friends who have lost a loved one to overdose.
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Coachella 2023: Heineken House reveals its hip-hop, R&B and dance music lineup
- March 23, 2023
The Heineken House, which is located inside the Coachella Valley Music & Arts Festival in Indio, has announced lineups for both of its weekends in the desert and its roster is filled with house, hip-hop and R&B artists.
During weekend one, April 14-16, the Heineken House will feature Walker & Royce, Felix Da Housecat, Hannah Wants, Lee Wells and Bones starting on Friday. On Saturday, Method Man & Redman, Austin Millz, DJ Pee .Wee (Anderson .Paak), Andre Power and Sweet Like Chocolate will perform. Sunday will include Nghtmre, LondonBridge, Whipped Cream, Niiko x Swae and Tony H.
As for weekend two, April 21-23, fans can enjoy sets from Chris Stussy, Emmit Fenn, Francis Mercier, HoneyLuv and Antoinette Van Dewark on Friday. Saturday will see performances from SG Lewis, Franc Moody, TEED, Coco & Breezy and Zen Freeman. And closing out on Sunday will be Snakehips, Fleetmac Wood, Bontan, Black V Neck and Max Styler on the decks.
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The Heineken House branded activation almost serves as yet another stage at Coachella. The beer company is also dropping its new Heineken Silver lager at the festival, too, and those 21-and-older can get a taste during these live performances.
The lineup for the 2023 installment of the global fest includes headliners Frank Ocean, Bad Bunny and Blackpink, as well Rosalia, Gorillaz, The Chemical Brothers, Calvin Harris, Burna Boy, Becky G, Yungblud, The Kid Laroi, Charli XCX, Underworld, Björk, Kali Uchis, Porter Robinson, Pusha T, Wet Leg, The Garden, Remi Wolf, Willow and dozens more.
Passes to weekend one of Coachella are sold out, but weekend two passes can be purchased starting at $549 at coachella.com.
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Montebello moves to recover following rare tornado
- March 23, 2023
Following the wreckage left behind by a rare tornado, the city of Montebello rallied Thursday, March 23, to marshal resources to aid those effected by the weather.
The city is working to collaborate with L.A. County’s emergency medical services agency, and the city is working to find funding and resources to assist businesses in repairing the damage, Alex Gillman, Montebello’s public information officer, confirmed Thursday.
Montebello’s industrial district on Washington Boulevard and Vail Avenue was visited by a rare landspout tornado on Wednesday morning.
Damage to a building is seen on Wednesday, March 22, 2023 in Montebello, Calif., after a possible tornado. (AP Photo/Ringo H.W. Chiu)
The unwelcome guest tore through the roofing of buildings, lifting debris high overhead. Onlookers reported that the loud gusts lifted gas station signs, trash and tree limbs toward the mountains.
One person at a private business suffered minor injuries.
A list of effected businesses is being compiled, but of the 17 effected properties, 11 were red tagged as of this morning.
According to Gillman, a task force has been created and met to expedite the permitting and construction activities that will take place on those damaged structures.
According to residents, the streets around the epicenter were closed for several hours, and nearby homes and businesses lost power from Washington Boulevard east to Whittier Boulevard, and from Vail Avenue south to Greenwood Avenue.
MONTEBELLO, CALIFORNIA – MARCH 22: An aerial view shows roof damage after a possible rare tornado touched down in a Los Angeles suburb on March 22, 2023 in Montebello, California. Another Pacific storm has been pounding California with heavy rain, high winds, and snow. (Photo by Mario Tama/Getty Images)
A gas line was severed, fire sprinklers broke, all the skylights shattered and a 5,000-square-foot (465-square-meter) section of roof was “just gone,” business owner, Michael Turner said. He added his polyester fiber business, Turner Fiberfill, could be closed for months.
With this possibility looming for other other business employees, Gillman added that the city is working with the State Employee Development Department to connect those who may experience unemployment following this incident.
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This is a developing story. Check back for updates.
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Abuses of CEQA continue to mount. The time for CEQA reform is now.
- March 23, 2023
It looks like reform finally might come for the California Environmental Quality Act. Along with many others, Gov. Gavin Newsom was outraged last month when Judge Gordon Burns of the First District Court of Appeal stalled new housing for UC Berkeley students and the homeless. “California cannot afford to be held hostage by NIMBYs who weaponize CEQA to block student and affordable housing,” he charged. “This law needs to change.”
Now the Little Hoover Commission, the state’s independent citizens oversight body, for the first time is putting a magnifying glass to CEQA. The commission said it “will survey the debate that surrounds CEQA, examine CEQA’s role in protecting the environment and providing public disclosure, and evaluate the nature and extent of CEQA’s impact on housing, land use, and other issues.” The first hearing was March 16, with two more set for April 13 and 27.
“CEQA is a litigation defense game, as it has evolved,” testified San Francisco attorney Jennifer Hernandez on March 16. “Many things need a little refreshing over time.” She cited data showing half of new housing projects in California face CEQA challenges.
It’s especially troubling how CEQA is used to block low-income housing during this time of a vast housing shortage. “During my eight years on the Newport Beach Planning Commission, I witnessed several ‘greenmailing’ attempts to block well-vetted projects for ‘environmental concerns,’ even though our local environmental groups were not opposing the project,” Newport Beach Councilman Erik Weigand told us. “In one particular instance, it was clearly obvious the carpenters union was shaking down the developer in order to secure work.”
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That project is Newport Crossings and its 350 apartments, 78 for low-income tenants. “It’s entitled,” Weigand said. “They are working on getting their permit issued.”
“We all know these tactics not only delay a good project from being built, but they drive up the costs of housing,” he added. “Another frustrating component Hernandez discussed is how CEQA is tossed overboard and bargained away by special interests when politicians feel something must be done in California. Take for instance the building of SoFi Stadium in Inglewood or the Golden 1 Center in Sacramento.”
It is indeed an outrage when billionaires’ sports projects take precedence over housing needs.
Everyone wants a clean environment, the original intent of the 1970 CEQA law signed by Gov. Ronald Reagan, a free-market advocate. We hope the Little Hoover Commission makes the most of its CEQA review and recommends effective reforms the Legislature can enact this year. We can’t wait any longer.
Orange County Register
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OC offering resources fair for those impacted by loss of pandemic-related assistance
- March 23, 2023
Orange County residents impacted by the loss of pandemic-related emergency CalFresh benefits can attend a resources fair this weekend where food, entertainment and help with other services will be on hand.
Federal funds added in response to the declared coronavirus emergency will end this month, reducing benefits provided through the state’s CalFresh food assistance program by at least $95. For many families, that loss is estimated to be about $170.
Related: Many OC families reaching ‘food cliff’ as pandemic assistance with buying food ends
“The end of the COVID-19 CalFresh emergency benefits and the return to the Medi-Cal renewal process will hit Central Orange County the hardest, especially cities within my district, including Santa Ana and Anaheim,” said Orange County Supervisor Vicente Sarmiento, who is hosting the Community Resources and Health Fair along with the county’s Social Services Agency.
Tens of thousands of Southern Californians could also lose out on Medi-Cal benefits, California’s Medicaid program, in the near future as states start to resume the redetermination process. Before the pandemic, those on Medi-Cal had to re-enroll annually in the state insurance program, but during lockdown orders, that was halted, meaning members were able to keep coverage even if they were no longer eligible.
“Many of our residents will now struggle to find ways to make up for these losses,” Sarmiento said.
Food and free diapers will be available, while supplies last, as well as applications for public assistance benefits like CalFresh and Medi-Cal. CalOptima Health, Latino Health Access and United Across Borders Foundation, among other organizations, will be on hand to help with resources.
The Social Services Agency will bring in a team to assist those who wish to apply for public assistance benefits or answer questions about their current benefits.
“This event brings together the pieces — our partners — who can help solve the puzzle of how residents can manage increased costs, from food to rent to gas and utilities, in one of the highest cost of living areas in the nation,” An Tran, director of the Social Services Agency, said.
The fair will be this Saturday, March 25, from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. at Santa Ana’s Centennial Park near the corner of Edinger Avenue and Fairview Street.
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Fryer: Newport Harbor vs. Huntington Beach might be a preview of CIF-SS boys volleyball final
- March 23, 2023
A preview of the CIF Southern Section Division 1 boys volleyball championship game might be taking place Friday night at Newport Harbor High School.
Huntington Beach will play Newport Harbor in a Surf League match at 5:45 p.m.
It’s not a stretch to say it’s a possible Division 1 final preview. Seven of the past nine Division 1 champions have been from the current four-team Surf League.
Newport Harbor won the Division 1 title last year and in 2019. Corona del Mar won it in 2017 and ‘18. Huntington Beach was the champion in 2013, ‘14 and ‘15.
And of the past nine years, the two years in which a current Surf League team did not win the Division 1 title, one of those teams lost in the final — Newport Harbor (to Mira Costa) in 2021 and Corona del Mar (to Loyola) in 2016.
Boys volleyball might be the sport in which Orange County shines best, and not just in CIF but nationally.
“This is a hot bed for boys volleyball,” said Huntington Beach coach Craig Pazanti. “Look at all of the Olympians in beach volleyball and indoor, all the gold medalists. Baseball obviously is a strong sport, too, but I would put our sport up against any other sport.”
Newport Harbor is 20-1 overall and 2-0 in the Surf League with league sweeps of Corona del Mar and Los Alamitos.
The Sailors are No. 1 in the CIF-SS Divisions 1 and 2 combined rankings. Their loss was to Beckman, the No. 3 team in the Divisions 1/2 poll that has Loyola at No. 2.
Their top players include senior outside hitters Luca Curci and Jake Read, who were All-CIF Division 1 selections last year. Read will play for Loyola of Chicago next year and Curci signed with UCLA. Junior opposite hitter Riggs Guy committed to UC Santa Barbara.
“We’re a very balanced team that can attack in a lot of ways,” said Newport Harbor coach Andrew Mabry.
Huntington Beach is 18-3 and has league wins over Los Alamitos and Corona del Mar. Huntington Beach is No. 6 in the Division 1/2 poll. Corona del Mar is No. 4.
Huntington Beach’s Liam Phinizy hits the ball during the CIF-SS quarterfinal match against Beckman on Tuesday, May 3, 2022. (Photo by Jeff Antenore, Contributing Photographer)
Oilers senior outside hitter Liam Phinizy signed with Loyola of Chicago. Phinizy and teammate Jake Pazanti, son of the coach and a Long Beach State commit, were all-league first-team picks last season.
Newport Harbor and Huntington Beach play each other in a second league match April 19 at Huntington Beach, the final league match of the season.
They just might play each other again in one of the later rounds of the Division 1 playoffs.
NOTES
It’s girls beach volleyball season in the CIF Southern Section and of course Orange County has some good teams. Six O.C. teams are in the Divisions 1/2 top 10, including No. 3 Mater Dei, No. 4 JSerra, No. 5 Los Alamitos, No. 8 Aliso Niguel, No. 9 San Clemente and No. 10 Newport Harbor. Redondo is No. 1. …
El Dorado girls lacrosse sophomore Mikka Oda has scored 67 goals in 14 games. University senior Kelly Tou has scored 57 goals in nine games. …
It was unlikely that any baseball team would go undefeated in the ultra-competitive Trinity League. Mater Dei finally lost a league game Wednesday, 1-0 to Orange Lutheran. Orange Lutheran’s Casey Borba drew a bases-loaded walk in the eighth inning and Lancers pitchers Jordan Cole and Nic Peterson combined on a four-hitter. …
Kyle Murphy took the Pacifica football coaching job because he felt it was the right time and right place for the longtime assistant to become a head coach, a job that long has seemed his destiny. He was a great lineman at Edison and coached there. His former Edison coach Dave White said, “I think Kyle’s really ready and excited and that’s how you want to go into it.” …
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Former Northwood coach Michael Nobles is the new football coach at Saddleback. He replaces Glenn Campbell who resigned. …
Santa Margarita’s nonleague football schedule includes a game against Centennial of Corona on Aug. 25 at Saddleback College. …
Former Mission Viejo boys basketball coach Troy Roelen said he probably won’t return to coaching the Diablos now that Moe Golshani no longer has the position. After many years as an athletic director at Mission Viejo, Roelen might be a good candidate for the CIF-SS assistant commissioner job that will be open as Rainer Wulf is retiring there. Among Wulf’s responsibilities is being in charge of the CIF-SS basketball playoffs.
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